We woke up at 3am to get ready for our 5 day/4 night Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. We were told when signing up that it wasn't hard at all. During our briefing the day before, we found out that wasn't true at all. I was beginning to freak out. Our bus finally got there at 5am (we were told 4am). We packed in and drove the 2 1/2 hours to Mollepatta with the windows down... It was freezing! For about an hour of the ride we sped through the windy gravel road up the mountain. I closed my eyes most of the time.
2. Breathing is hard to do in high altitude, especially when trying to hike.
When we arrived at Mollepata, we went inside this little restaurant for breakfast. There were two options: orange juice and toast, or orange juice, hot chocolate, toast, and an egg. I got the second and ate one bite of the egg and sipped on the orange juice. I was really nauseous from the ride up and the egg (which was scrambled and then maybe fried in salt???) was not settling well in my stomach. I drank some coca tea and went outside with the group. There were 12 of us plus our guide. We all introduced ourselves and then started up the hill through the town. After about 10 yards I knew I was going to be in the back the whole hike. I could barely breathe and was already sweating. I had to stop a number of times (even between the stops that the guide was giving to show us different plants and amazing views.) I was starting to feel really bad for making Tyler lag behind with me and for holding up the group at each resting point. I barely made it to our lunch spot about four hours from the start of the hike. Day two was supposed to be the hardest day. It is a 10 hour hike, over half of which is straight up for almost 1,000 meters. The second half is down a very rocky hill. I knew I wasn't going to be able to make it. Not only was I almost passing out from the slightest incline, but my weak ankle wasn't going to be able to handle the rocky path down. I went to our guide Jorge and asked what my options for leaving were. He talked to the driver of the truck that was hauling our camping gear up to the fist site. The driver agreed to drive me back to Mollepata for 20 soles. From there, I would have to find my own way back to Cuzco. Jorge told me I would be missing out on the trek and meals, but that he thought it was a good idea for me not to try the trek on day two. I could meet back up on Friday in Aguas Calientes though. We have a hostel booked for everyone there and we can go to the hot springs and then go to Machu Picchu in the morning. I hopped in the front of the truck and we started up from the lunch spot to the camping site.
the trail head-I'm already in the back of the group
our view from one of the resting points
more of the view
The driver of the truck didn't speak a single word of English and I might as well have not been able to speak any Spanish because every time he spoke to me I just stared at him and said 'No entiendo'. I could have sworn he was speaking Quechua since I couldn't make out a single word. When we got to a rest point, everyone got out of the truck (there were about ten people riding in the bed with the luggage) and started loading up more gear. I watched men loading gear onto mules and then shooing them away to wander the hillsides. Once loaded, we continued up the mountain. The driver had obviously driven these gravel road many times, but it was still extremely scary looking out the passenger window and seeing steep cliffs straight down. Passing other trucks on a one lane road hanging over a cliff isn't very fun either. I just tried to enjoy the view and trust that the driver knew what he was doing and the the rocks wouldn't just crumble beneath the wheels. At the camp site, I got out to use the restroom. I found one-locked, then saw a lady standing outside her house. I asked if she had a bathroom and she pointed the way. Every bathroom is different here. Usually there is no toilet paper and sometimes no seat. It's always a surprise! I thanked her as I left and she asked for one sol. I told her my money was in the truck and I would try to get it to her on my way back down. Jorge was at the truck and he introduced me to another guy, Ben, that said he could drive me from Mollepata to Cuzco for 30 soles. I agreed and we got in the front of the truck with the driver and headed back down the hill. We picked up three women along the way. One was Ben's friend and she squished in the front with us and the other two just jumped in the back and stood up the whole way. Ben asked if I spoke Spanish and I told him I just spoke a little. He asked me a few questions and then gave up. I had no idea what he was asking. I was able to tell him my name and he said that Brindy was a beautiful name. The three Peruvians chatted the whole way while I tried my best to pick out any word I could. I think I caught about 5% of their conversation...
my view out the truck window
it just keeps getting better
we passed Tyler along the way-he looks exhausted
the mules and cows at the first truck stop
one mule all packed up for his trek to the first camp site
the view from the camp site-really wish I could have stayed
We drove for hours down the bumpy gravel road to town. I thought it would never end, but finally I started seeing more houses and people. When we arrived in Mollepata, I thanked the driver and paid him then followed Ben to a restaurant. There was an older lady sitting out front and a young woman with a baby on her back. I asked for a restroom and the woman unlocked her restaurant the let me in. Ben and his friend went in search for a car. Ben told me to just sit on this bench out front. I sat next to three little girls that were playing with their kitchen set and having a tea party. They were totally hilarious! They started casing some dogs around in the street (wild dogs are everywhere here, but they are extremely friendly-besides this one on our hike that bit a guy in our group...) The girls started kicking a plastic cola bottle around. I loved how much fun they could have with a bottle. Kids are awesome. I watched the sun go down as I sat on the bench. Ben and his friend walked by a few times and tried to explain that they were still looking for a car. I tried to be patient, but it was completely dark now and I was in a little town, by myself, where nobody spoke any English and I was 2 1/2 hours from Cuzco. I asked the woman with the baby if she could call a taxi so I could get to Cuzco. I wasn't excited about paying for a taxi, but I wanted to get to my hostel. The woman explained that Ben and his friend were getting a car and I could wait inside the restaurant. I thanked her and sat at a table and read a book. A man came in and asked if I spoke Spanish. I just said no. He was able to tell me in broken English that a car was coming in 20 minutes for me to get back to Cuzco. Ben arrived and grabbed my bag, the car was here! It was a beautiful new van with reclining seats. At this point, I would have been fine with a freezing ride in the back of a pickup truck. We sat there for ten minutes while the driver chatted with people on the street. Everyone in Mollepata knows each other. We drove about 3 blocks before he got out and chatted with some other people for another ten minutes. Finally, we started driving to Cuzco. We arrived somewhere in Cuzco at 9:30pm. I wanted to get to Plaza San Francisco, but I had no idea where that was. Ben grabbed my bag again and we started walking. He hailed a taxi and we all got in. I finally made it to my destination and thanked Ben and his friend for all their help.
[There have been many times when I've wanted to take a picture of the things I'm seeing and experiencing. Sometimes I just don't feel safe taking my camera out, other times it would be rude. My time with these people and with the little girls was one that I just couldn't have captured even if I did take a photo. I am so grateful for everyone I met that helped me safely get back to my hostel.]
5. The sun in Peru is extreme.
I made it to my hostel and got another room, this time alone. I was so upset that I couldn't finish the trek, but glad that Tyler was able to continue. Hopefully he takes lots of amazing photos. He will be going through the jungle on day three, which is what I am the most upset about missing (minus the mosquitoes since I was already attacked on the first day). I got to my room and took off my dirty clothes. I now have the most beautiful sunburn on my face, right ear, arms, and chest. I'm going to sleep well tonight.
